One of the most talked-about shows to grace Paris Fashion Week was two-time CFDA Designer of the Year Willy Chavarria’s ‘Tarantula’, a bold vision into the unique history of Mexican American streetwear fashion.
The artists’ cultural roots take centre stage in this collection which both venerates and reclaims the figure of the Chicano, a term historically linked to the oppression of Mexican Americans.
Figure 1 - Willy Chavarria, Culted
Chavarria’s work is famous for being politically driven. He has also worked with some major brands, such as Calvin Klein, American Eagle and Ralph Lauren, making him a household name both among fashion-lovers and industry professionals, bulldozing a path for the political in fashion.
The Collection
Tailored suits, strong shoulders, exaggerated collars, loose-fitting baggy trousers and red roses are common motifs of the collection. We also see a fun interplay of patterns; a grey check accessorised with traditional bandanas, accentuated with a silk rose.
The combination of suits with more casual underlayers and graphic tees indicates the accessible and wearable nature of Chavarria’s collection. The camel, tan browns seen repeatedly are a nod to the work-wear inspiration, emphasised further with a keychain belt. The collection shows that the contrast of elegance and practicality can work playfully in harmony. It covers a broad spectrum of Chicano fashion influences, from the more casual tracksuits and denim bomber jackets to elegant, tailored pieces.
Figure 2 & 3 - Willy Chavarria, Vogue Runway
The display of suits on offer are at times more understated; the fit worn by J Balvin in his performance on the runway featuring broad silk lapels, a baggy fit and statement bowtie shows Chavarria’s own elevation of the classic black suit. The collection also features unapologetically loud colourful statement pieces. A green velvet suit accessorised with a red rose brooch come to mind here. But the collection’s scope is not merely stylistic but also arguably, temporal. Chavarria skilfully fuses modernity with tradition, leading us on a visual journey through the history of Mexican American fashion culture.
Figure 4 - Willy Chavarria, Vogue Runway
Figure 5 - J Balvin in Willy Chavarria, Vogue Runway
Even though the collection is arguably male-dominated, the womenswear is also serving some incredibly c*nty office-siren vibes. The women’s pieces play with form in an interesting way, choosing to pair office-wear pencil skirts with the strong squared shoulder that has become a staple of the collection. The show also showed the versatility of the designs to work for both and women. As a member of the LGBTQ+ community and strong advocate for their rights, Chavarria refuses to stay within the confines of gender, a belief he expressed in a recent interview with the BBC Mundo that"clothes aren’t gendered…when you put them on, a person can become feminine or masculine”.
Figure 6 – Willy Chavarria, Vogue Runway
The designer reveals that although politics are a big part of his artistic expression, often feeling driven by the institutionalised racism he’s experienced to “work harder to prove people wrong” (Culted), he can see himself creating a less radical collection, aspiring to work with big names such as Givenchy and Gucci. The designer also confirmed in an interview with Culted his plans to drop more affordable capsules throughout the year.
Many have commented on the poignant timing of the collection, arriving amidst mass deportations in the first few weeks of the Trump administration. Chavarria commented that he – “wanted to remind all of us that are still here that we have a place here and that we have the capacity to have power here” (BBC Mundo). Designers like Chavarria are helping to vindicate the presence of minority cultures, offering an authentic and unique take on both streetwear and evening wear.
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